

Design and purpose are apparent everywhere; the position of El Castillo (the most famous landmark) causes shadows during the Spring and Fall equinox to move down the stairs bringing to life the Feathered Serpents that adorn it's massive foundation. Touring the ball court you're told stories of the nature of play involved; legend suggests the winning teams Captain is beheaded, as an honor to his victory, earning a direct ticket to heaven. The people who designed and built the columns, farmed agriculture and reigned supreme over the jungle denizens were cosmologists of expanding intellect and a short yet sturdy physical stature. As the rental car wove through the snaking "libre" road which parallels the main highway we came upon a village. Plastic cisterns and corrugated roofs, weathered paint and worn fabric. There was a family with a proud daughter who spoke a small amount of Spanish and no English, her language was a Mayan dialect.

She posed and I was impressed by her elegance and poise. We were in a jungle once inhabited by Toltec and Mayan. I had just toured an ancient wonder, a world heritage site filled with spirituality and mysticism and I wanted the thread intact; western influence be damned-style and appearance, BE Mayan...yet, in front of me was an Indian girl, language and traditions still shared with her ancestors, who possessed a dress, worn with pride, and a desire for all things the 21st century offers. I know the tourist route but I'm a traveler, I want the grit and the history, the anthropology, the eye opening reality that is...the was...in the now. But, life is not a reality show or re-enactments on the the history channel or a NatGeo documentary - everyone wants and they think what they desire. So, through a series of sign and gesture, I asked what I could do in return for the photo and , her Mother wanted to show me fabric. And, like all economies of barter, trade or sell, we had made a deal and I came away enlightened with a colored cloth and a few photographs. Her face represented a real and living image reflecting the cascading history of Chichen Itza.


